Forget unagi, the overfished freshwater eel, and try the altogether subtler saltwater anago at the only Tokyo restaurant that still serves it – in lots of different ways
Unagi, or freshwater eel, is so popular a dish in Japan that stocks are in serious decline. On the other hand anago – the more subtly flavoured saltwater eel – is rarely seen on Tokyo menus. The rich flavour of unagi comes from its oily skin and flesh, but anago (conger eels) are leaner, and have a softer, lighter taste. There is, according to chef Yuji Sato, only one restaurant specialising in anago left in the capital, and it’s his.
Tamai opened 10 years ago, on the premises of a former sake merchant in the Nihonbashi business district, and its timber-framed building, dwarfed by high-rise office blocks, is itself a taste of times gone by. Sitting in simple wooden booths, customers can order anything they like – so long as it’s eel.
from Travel | The Guardian ift.tt/2jlAqns
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